THE GODDESS COLLECTION PART 1

A little while I shot a series of images with Grace Elkin Photography and I’m delighted to finally share some of results with you including part of the ‘Goddess Collection’: a capsule collection of corsets. 

FREYA (the Nordic goddess of  love, beauty, fertility) is the first corset in the collection. More on the inspiration and construction can be found here.  Teamed with the limited purple ASTA body and leg harness SET.

OSTARA (The Nordic Spring Goddess) is the second corset in the collection based on a vintage 1940’s pattern from my personal collection. More on the inspiration and construction can be found here. 

Teamed with the limited KISA harness in a matching purple elastic with gold hardware

CREDITS

PHOTOGRAPHY: GRACE ELKI PHOTOGRAPHY 

MODEL: KIM SMALLWOOD
All the items can be found in our online shop. 

Im so pleased with the outcome. More images to share soon from this shoot! 

WINTER IS COMING…

Its been a very exciting and busy time at the TS Studio! At the moment amonst customer orders I am currently in the process of designing my website which I aim to launch very soon. A  full blog post to follow at a later date. So, I’ve been a little slow on updating my blog with some of my most recent corset projects.  I’ve a few others sat in the pattern development stage I’m itching the finish.

 The first was based on the cincher pattern as seen a couple of times now throughout the blog. Im trying to utilise materials sat in my fabric stash for samples before buying anymore! For this corset I used the familiar mesh with a red taffeta for the main panels and bone casings. I do intend at some point to make up this pattern in a solid colour probably decorated with some lace applique.

The sample measure 22″ waist and can be purchased through the Etsy store.

The second corset using some left over gold silk from a previous customer order was based upon the Vellamo pattern. I tweaked the pattern slightly reducing the waist by approximately an inch. 

I used a different method of construction to the previous sample. I joined the seams wrong sides together and covered them with an external silk bone channel. Feeling totally out of my comfort zone in terms of colour I matched the gold silk with gold hardware (grommets and busk).

This sample can also be purchased from the Etsy store measuring a 20″ waist.

AUTUMN IS HERE…

Over the last month I’ve been working on a couple of custom orders. It’s so lovely when a client has a vision I can bring to life.

My first request was to make up CB11- the mini corset belt in white satin back coutil and white transparent mesh finished with silver hardware. This style has since been added to the Etsy store.

My second custom order ‘Janelle’ was also a development from the CB11 pattern. The client sent me some inspirational pictures of a mask bought for an event and whom wanted a corset to go with. 

After some back and forth discussion regarding colour choice we went for a gold silk for the centre front and back panels, vertical bone channels and bias binding.

The client had also requested some horizontal bands in a slightly different gold tone. I made these using a tape maker and top stitched them over the mesh before applying the bone chanels. I omitted the waist tape from this style.To allow for a slightly bigger gap between each band I added approximately 1cm to both the upper and lower edges. I used a slightly longer busk and the corset was finished with 8 sets of eyelets.

I’m so pleased with how this corset turned out I have added it as made to order item on the Etsy store.

VELLAMO: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

This week I have finished off the third corset in ‘The Goddess Collection’

VELLAMO is the goddess associated with water, lakes and seas in Finnish mythology.

I developed the corset as a move on from my 14 panel underbust pattern used for the Freya corset. I wanted to create a slightly longer corset bringing the sides down level with the top hip and creating a wave like effect with the lower edge. I made a slightly bigger waist reduction bringing the corset to finish 19″ fully closed.

From the initial toile of the pattern I decided to raise the side upper level by 0cm at the centre front to 1cm at the side to 1.5cm at the centre back. I also dropped the side front lower edge of the corset by 1cm to 0cm at the centre front creating a softer curve. I dropped the side and centre back by 1.5cm to cover slightly more of the hip.

I chose a lilac shot with turquoise silk taffeta backed with coutil for the final corset. I chose to use gold features with the busk and eyelets at the back. The corset was finished with the purple metallic thread lace applique in keeping with the Freya corset.

Just before adding the binding to the upper edge I cut down the centre front upper edge by approximately 1cm to give a smoother curve.

The VELLAMO corset can be made to order here. Customise the fabric choice and choose between plain and lace decorated finish.

OSTARA: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

Having drafted the pattern several years ago I recently found the time to make up one of my personal projects: a longline girdle inspired  a 1940’s utility corset from my own vintage collection.

OSTARA is the second corset in ‘The Goddess Collection’. Ostara is the Nordic Spring Goddess.

The corset is constructed from a silk taffeta backed with coutil (pin rolled pieces). Centre front and centre back casings also made with silk backed with coutil

For this sample I chose to omit the underbelt seen on the original 1940’s garment focussing on cut and shape over making a historically accurate reproduction. For a detailed study of the original Avro garment follow the link to my other blog.

The corset is finished with gold hardware including the busk and eyelets contrasting nicely with the silk- a little out of my comfort zone as I don’t tend to work with gold. I chose to use a  busk the length of the centre front panel rather than the original garments reduced length and  hook and eye feature to the lower section.

The corset is decorated with gold tone hand cut lace applique and finished with bead and sequin embellishment.

Pattern drafted using CAD system

Plain finished corset front view

Plain finished corset back view

Progress of lace application

Being watched…

Flat lay of the finished corset with lace application

Close up detail of lace

Finished corset

Finished corset on the mannequin

Finished corset on the mannequin front view

Just before writing this article I used the corset in a photoshoot. I’m really excited to show you the images in a later post.

FREYA: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

Over the last few weeks I have finished off several new corsets but have not had the chance to document them yet. Hopefully over the next few days I’ll get the time to catch up with some writing and share my recent works.

FREYA is the first corset in a mini series captioned the ‘Goddess  Collection’. 

Freya is the Norse Goddess associated with love, beauty, fertility, war, wealth, divination and magic. Her name derives from the ancient Norse word for lady of Mistress

 The pattern was taken from a previous customer order and measures 20″ waist. It was constructed from 14 panels of silk backed with coutil. 
The corset features a silver busk and eyelets for lacing. It is decorated with hand cut metallic lace embroidery, appliqued to the front panels and finished with bead and sequin embellishment.

Flat lay of the corset before embellishment

The Freya corset on the mannequin before embellishment

Hand cut metallic lace from an all over mesh fabric

Spent a lovely Sunday afternoon hand sewing the lace kept company by my cat Torstein

Flat lay of the corset with lace embellishment

Trying on the Freya corset for fit

The Freya corset can be made to order from the Etsy store. 

Just before writing this article, the corset was used for a photoshoot. I can’t wait to share the images with you in a later article.

WASPIE DEVELOPMENT

Developed for a customer order, this simple yet sophisticated black underbust style corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 per side) of satin backed coutil with a coutil strength layer for added durability.

Trialling a new construction method the corset features bone casings made with a tape maker and applied to the inside, pushing the seam allowance toward the back. One side stitched down to the seam allowance to hold in place before topstitching.

Facings used for centre front and centre back panels with front modesty panel behind the busk. 10 sets of eyelets at the back for lacing.

Hopefully adding this style to the store soon.

PATENT CHALLENGE: 1878 H. S. STRAUSS

Over the last couple of weeks I have been on off working on a new corset  and article based upon a historical patent from 1878. The patent can be found here.

Following the patent instructions the corset was made from a double layer of fabric for the centre front, front, side front and back panels that would sandwich a series of bones . The side panels were cut from a single layer. I chose a spot broche fabric for its strength and durability.

The corset is heavily boned with 50 in total and over 8 metres of boning used. There is a curious additional bone pocket panel stitched to the exterior of the corset- a totally new technique and unique to the patent- I think this is what initially caught my eye and intrigued me to investigate when I was deciding on what my new challenge would be.

Here are a few  photos from the project thus far.

Double flexi steel bones used in wider external casings

Interesting bone pocket- additional panel applied to the exterior of the garment

Bone pocket pinned in place

Rows of stitching to create bone channels in the pocket

Top and bottom edge bound in silk- handstitched in place

Hand cut lace applique pinned in place

I think I’m going to add some Swarovski crystals on top of the lace to add a little Sparkle. I’ll keep you updated!

FUN WITH MESH

I’ve wanted to experiment more with mesh in corsetry since my first mesh/silk combo. See post CB9 here. I love the idea of seeing flesh through so chose a flesh/white mesh  to go with the same printed silk from CB9 (using also the same pattern)

The outcome- I love the black accent used in the external bone casing and binding which really stands out

Side by side: The 2 variations of the black mesh and white mesh with printed silk

Both these samples are available to buy in the Etsy store.

I decided I wanted to develop the pattern further to make my 12 panel pattern (6 per side) into a 14 panels corset. Essentially I would add an addition side panel by displacing various seams and reshaping the front panels.

The centre front  would be narrower removing the flat steel bone channel stitched next to the busk.

CB11: For this sample I chose a combination of the flesh/white mesh with a black satin backed coutil for the centre front/back panels and external bone casings.

I love how the mesh is able to support itself and create the curves of the waist and top hip and standing up on its own.

Joining the mesh side to the centre front and back panels with waist tape inserted.

Bone casings applied. Binding stitched one side and flipped over. Pinned ready to top stitched.

CB9

This week I revisited a pattern I drafted some time back. CB9 is the smallest pattern I’ve developed to date. Featuring a 12cm busk and 6 sets of eyelets at the back this pattern is cut high over the hip bone. The pattern was designed so the corset could be styled as a belt, that can be worn to dress up any outfit.

For this sample I chose a printed silk for the centre front and centre back panels and a strong mesh for the sides. The corset also features external bone casings in satin backed coutil and satin finish bias binding.

The silk panels were pin rolled to a layer of coutil for stability and to prevent any creasing of the top fabric . Another layer of coutil was used to back the centre front for the busk insertion and to create the eyelet channels at the back.