SKADI: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The latest sample for the ‘Corset a week’ challenge is the SKADI underbust corset waspie.

For the sample I used the remaining claret red silk from my customer order from the previous week (blog post here) and black mesh. The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 23″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 8 sets of eyelets for lacing at the back. There are 18 bones around the corset a combination of flexi spiral steel and flat bones on each side of the eyelets. The corset also features silk bias binding finish and an inner waist tape.

The Skadi waspie style can be made to order from our shop. Choose your own combination of coloured silk and mesh for a truely bespoke corset.

 

AUTUMN IS HERE

The latest project I have completed was a custom order for a client who wanted a corset with a zip fastening to replace the busk front closure.

The client chose a claret red silk dupion to pair with the natural mesh used on the Frances style underbust corset pattern. A chunky zip with silver teeth and big circular puller was picked and co-ordinating eyelets.

I am happy to swap the busk for a fancy zip on any of our styles for quick and easy dressing/undressing.

 

NERTHUS: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The latest sample for the ‘Corset a week’ challenge is the Nerthus underbust corset waspie. The pattern is a fusion of the Agata dipped front upper edge and Vellamo shaped lower edge.

For the sample I used a purple silk from my archive of fabrics and black mesh. The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 20″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 10 sets of eyelets for lacing at the back. There are 18 bones around the corset a combination of flexi spiral steel and flat bones on each side of the eyelets. The corset also features silk bias binding finish and an inner waist tape.

The style can also be made to order from our shop. The 20″ waist sample is also available to purchase here.

 

RUNA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

Over the last couple of weeks I have been developing several new pattern variations on the short waspie style corset belt.

I love the versatility of these garments. Not only are they fantastic for those with a short torso but they are easy to wear and style. They make a great addition to any lingerie set or could be used to layer over an outfit as a cincher belt.

The RUNA style was based on an older pattern I dug of my archive (as recognised on the Poppy and Zinnia styles.) I dropped the centre front for a heart shaped waist line and replaced the busk for a shorter 9cm length.

The sample is made from a combination of satin coutil and sheer mesh and decorated with hand cut couture lace applique with bead/stud embellishment also seen in the Ziva harness.

As with all the samples, this style can be customised and the corset can be made using your choice of colour and fabric.

A waist tape can be added to the style. I omitted it from this sample to not distract from the lace.

The sample is sized at a 23″ waist so suitable for someone with a natural waist between 27/28″ and can be purchased here.

The Runa corset can also be made to order to your measurements here.

CORSET A WEEK CHALLENGE

Some time ago I decided to challenge myself to making a corset a week starting from scratch with a new pattern. The patterns may be inspired by historical garments, patents, vintage advertising or modifying existing patterns in my archive. Each corset will be a blank canvas in terms of fabric choice, trims, embellishment. Whilst creating one off samples for the shop the overall objective would be to create a large catalogue of block patterns that can be personalised for individual orders.

This week I went back to visit a small 12 panel corset belt pattern I originally developed some time ago. The centre front and back panels were printed silk with mesh sides and black accent used for the bone channels and bias binding.

I made two size versions varying the silk print on each style so each one a one off piece.

Both styles are available in the Shop. Designed to designed to leave a 1-2″ gap at the centre back and give a 2-3″ reduction to your waist.

POPPY– 20″ waist

Most suited to a person with the following natural measurement
Ribcage: 27/29″
Waist: 23/25″
Tophip (pelvis bone- about 10cm down from the waistline) 29/31″

ZINNIA– 23″ waist

Most suited to a person with the following natural measurement
Ribcage: 29/31″
Waist: 27/28″
Tophip (pelvis bone- about 10cm down from the waistline) 32/34″

AGATA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The AGATA underbust corset waspie pattern was a move on from our short black satin coutil and mesh style. I wanted to drop the centre front scooping up and around the body to the back. I also lowered the centre front lower edge and sides to provide a little more control to the stomach area. I chose a purple shot blue silk dupion and backed it onto coutil to match a beautiful beaded lace  from which I would hand cut motifs from.

The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 20″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 8 sets of eyelets for lacing at the back. There are 18 bones around the corset a combination of flexi spiral steel and flat bones on each side of the eyelets. The corset also features silk bias binding finish and an inner waist tape.

The corset was decorated with hand cut couture embellished lace applique- my absolute favourite colour combination with the purple/blue silk.

The style can also be made to order plain or decorated from our shop. The 20″ waist sample is also available to purchase.

 

VOLUSPA: BUSKLESS UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The VOLUSPA pattern was inspired by the cut of the riding/sports corsets C1900, short in length and finishing high over the hip.

The corset is constructed from 13 panels and measures a 20″ corset waist. I chose to make this sample buskless using a single centre front panel to hold 6 flat steels in stitched channels to compress to the stomach. The corset features a further 16 bones; a combination of flexi spiral steels and flat steels either side of the eyelets. I chose a slate grey silk backed with coutil and constructed the corset with external bone casings of the same silk.

The corset was decorated with hand cut couture embellished lace applique with conical stud detail.

The corset sample is available to purchase from the Etsy store and the style can also be made to order plain or decorated from our shop.

WINTER IS COMING…

Its been a very exciting and busy time at the TS Studio! At the moment amonst customer orders I am currently in the process of designing my website which I aim to launch very soon. A  full blog post to follow at a later date. So, I’ve been a little slow on updating my blog with some of my most recent corset projects.  I’ve a few others sat in the pattern development stage I’m itching the finish.

 The first was based on the cincher pattern as seen a couple of times now throughout the blog. Im trying to utilise materials sat in my fabric stash for samples before buying anymore! For this corset I used the familiar mesh with a red taffeta for the main panels and bone casings. I do intend at some point to make up this pattern in a solid colour probably decorated with some lace applique.

The sample measure 22″ waist and can be purchased through the Etsy store.

The second corset using some left over gold silk from a previous customer order was based upon the Vellamo pattern. I tweaked the pattern slightly reducing the waist by approximately an inch. 

I used a different method of construction to the previous sample. I joined the seams wrong sides together and covered them with an external silk bone channel. Feeling totally out of my comfort zone in terms of colour I matched the gold silk with gold hardware (grommets and busk).

This sample can also be purchased from the Etsy store measuring a 20″ waist.

AUTUMN IS HERE…

Over the last month I’ve been working on a couple of custom orders. It’s so lovely when a client has a vision I can bring to life.

My first request was to make up CB11- the mini corset belt in white satin back coutil and white transparent mesh finished with silver hardware. This style has since been added to the Etsy store.

My second custom order ‘Janelle’ was also a development from the CB11 pattern. The client sent me some inspirational pictures of a mask bought for an event and whom wanted a corset to go with. 

After some back and forth discussion regarding colour choice we went for a gold silk for the centre front and back panels, vertical bone channels and bias binding.

The client had also requested some horizontal bands in a slightly different gold tone. I made these using a tape maker and top stitched them over the mesh before applying the bone chanels. I omitted the waist tape from this style.To allow for a slightly bigger gap between each band I added approximately 1cm to both the upper and lower edges. I used a slightly longer busk and the corset was finished with 8 sets of eyelets.

I’m so pleased with how this corset turned out I have added it as made to order item on the Etsy store.

VELLAMO: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

This week I have finished off the third corset in ‘The Goddess Collection’

VELLAMO is the goddess associated with water, lakes and seas in Finnish mythology.

I developed the corset as a move on from my 14 panel underbust pattern used for the Freya corset. I wanted to create a slightly longer corset bringing the sides down level with the top hip and creating a wave like effect with the lower edge. I made a slightly bigger waist reduction bringing the corset to finish 19″ fully closed.

From the initial toile of the pattern I decided to raise the side upper level by 0cm at the centre front to 1cm at the side to 1.5cm at the centre back. I also dropped the side front lower edge of the corset by 1cm to 0cm at the centre front creating a softer curve. I dropped the side and centre back by 1.5cm to cover slightly more of the hip.

I chose a lilac shot with turquoise silk taffeta backed with coutil for the final corset. I chose to use gold features with the busk and eyelets at the back. The corset was finished with the purple metallic thread lace applique in keeping with the Freya corset.

Just before adding the binding to the upper edge I cut down the centre front upper edge by approximately 1cm to give a smoother curve.

The VELLAMO corset can be made to order here. Customise the fabric choice and choose between plain and lace decorated finish.