Over the last few years I have had a constant battle with myself on my methods of working, whether to A. Make complete collections around a theme or B build up a pattern library of corsets working on individual items at a time. Each has its positives and negatives which left me for a time at a stalemate.
So I have decided to challenge myself to making a corset a week starting from scratch with developing a new pattern and finishing with the complete garment. The patterns may be inspired by historical garments, patents, vintage advertising or modifying existing patterns in my archive. Each corset will be a blank canvas in terms of fabric choice, trims, embellishment. The result: a large catalogue of patterns that can be ordered and customised and then also be able to pick out styles for mini concept collections.
(In the meantime…)
I decided to revisit the pattern from the mesh waist cincher corset from last week. I’ve ordered some shorter busks to make a petite version however I wanted to try out a different way of constructing and a couple of new techniques. This corset is made of a layer of satin back coutil and coutil joined using the welt seam method. The boning would be encased within the seams.
I decided to add a modesty panel for the busk which would hide any skin that could be visible at the front fastener. This is something I intend on implementing on all future designs where possible
I’ve always wanted to include fan lacing on a corset ever since seeing it on the Jenyns’ corset below at the Symington collection. (I have another blog post in the pipeline that looks at this in more detail). I love the intricacy of the lines the lacing creates and thought on a simpler design it would look quite effective
Ideally I would have used a grosgrain ribbon but the only thing to hand was the twill waist tape I use which is slightly thicker. I was reluctant to use ribbon in case it couldn’t take the strain from being pulled. In hindsight I’m not entirely happy with the strap choice made and may investigate some alternative options.
Finally the lacing…
It took me several attempts to put the lacing in. I’m sure there are probably several ways of applying it which I will investigate further. It’s definately a feature I want to be using again in the future. I’m sure I can play around with colour blocking within the corset panels and then the lace colour to make it really stand out.
Another style to get on a body for a shoot. I look forward to posting the outcome in the not so distant future.
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