NERTHUS: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The latest sample for the ‘Corset a week’ challenge is the Nerthus underbust corset waspie. The pattern is a fusion of the Agata dipped front upper edge and Vellamo shaped lower edge.

For the sample I used a purple silk from my archive of fabrics and black mesh. The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 20″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 10 sets of eyelets for lacing at the back. There are 18 bones around the corset a combination of flexi spiral steel and flat bones on each side of the eyelets. The corset also features silk bias binding finish and an inner waist tape.

The style can also be made to order from our shop. The 20″ waist sample is also available to purchase here.

 

AGATA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The AGATA underbust corset waspie pattern was a move on from our short black satin coutil and mesh style. I wanted to drop the centre front scooping up and around the body to the back. I also lowered the centre front lower edge and sides to provide a little more control to the stomach area. I chose a purple shot blue silk dupion and backed it onto coutil to match a beautiful beaded lace  from which I would hand cut motifs from.

The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 20″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 8 sets of eyelets for lacing at the back. There are 18 bones around the corset a combination of flexi spiral steel and flat bones on each side of the eyelets. The corset also features silk bias binding finish and an inner waist tape.

The corset was decorated with hand cut couture embellished lace applique- my absolute favourite colour combination with the purple/blue silk.

The style can also be made to order plain or decorated from our shop. The 20″ waist sample is also available to purchase.

 

VOLUSPA: BUSKLESS UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE

The VOLUSPA pattern was inspired by the cut of the riding/sports corsets C1900, short in length and finishing high over the hip.

The corset is constructed from 13 panels and measures a 20″ corset waist. I chose to make this sample buskless using a single centre front panel to hold 6 flat steels in stitched channels to compress to the stomach. The corset features a further 16 bones; a combination of flexi spiral steels and flat steels either side of the eyelets. I chose a slate grey silk backed with coutil and constructed the corset with external bone casings of the same silk.

The corset was decorated with hand cut couture embellished lace applique with conical stud detail.

The corset sample is available to purchase from the Etsy store and the style can also be made to order plain or decorated from our shop.

VELLAMO: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

This week I have finished off the third corset in ‘The Goddess Collection’

VELLAMO is the goddess associated with water, lakes and seas in Finnish mythology.

I developed the corset as a move on from my 14 panel underbust pattern used for the Freya corset. I wanted to create a slightly longer corset bringing the sides down level with the top hip and creating a wave like effect with the lower edge. I made a slightly bigger waist reduction bringing the corset to finish 19″ fully closed.

From the initial toile of the pattern I decided to raise the side upper level by 0cm at the centre front to 1cm at the side to 1.5cm at the centre back. I also dropped the side front lower edge of the corset by 1cm to 0cm at the centre front creating a softer curve. I dropped the side and centre back by 1.5cm to cover slightly more of the hip.

I chose a lilac shot with turquoise silk taffeta backed with coutil for the final corset. I chose to use gold features with the busk and eyelets at the back. The corset was finished with the purple metallic thread lace applique in keeping with the Freya corset.

Just before adding the binding to the upper edge I cut down the centre front upper edge by approximately 1cm to give a smoother curve.

The VELLAMO corset can be made to order here. Customise the fabric choice and choose between plain and lace decorated finish.

FREYA: ‘THE GODDESS COLLECTION’

Over the last few weeks I have finished off several new corsets but have not had the chance to document them yet. Hopefully over the next few days I’ll get the time to catch up with some writing and share my recent works.

FREYA is the first corset in a mini series captioned the ‘Goddess  Collection’. 

Freya is the Norse Goddess associated with love, beauty, fertility, war, wealth, divination and magic. Her name derives from the ancient Norse word for lady of Mistress

 The pattern was taken from a previous customer order and measures 20″ waist. It was constructed from 14 panels of silk backed with coutil. 
The corset features a silver busk and eyelets for lacing. It is decorated with hand cut metallic lace embroidery, appliqued to the front panels and finished with bead and sequin embellishment.

Flat lay of the corset before embellishment

The Freya corset on the mannequin before embellishment

Hand cut metallic lace from an all over mesh fabric

Spent a lovely Sunday afternoon hand sewing the lace kept company by my cat Torstein

Flat lay of the corset with lace embellishment

Trying on the Freya corset for fit

The Freya corset can be made to order from the Etsy store. 

Just before writing this article, the corset was used for a photoshoot. I can’t wait to share the images with you in a later article.

CB9

This week I revisited a pattern I drafted some time back. CB9 is the smallest pattern I’ve developed to date. Featuring a 12cm busk and 6 sets of eyelets at the back this pattern is cut high over the hip bone. The pattern was designed so the corset could be styled as a belt, that can be worn to dress up any outfit.

For this sample I chose a printed silk for the centre front and centre back panels and a strong mesh for the sides. The corset also features external bone casings in satin backed coutil and satin finish bias binding.

The silk panels were pin rolled to a layer of coutil for stability and to prevent any creasing of the top fabric . Another layer of coutil was used to back the centre front for the busk insertion and to create the eyelet channels at the back.